Ouch! That Monkey Just Bit Me! Backpacking West Africa..

This blog post was originally published for Do It While You're Young, a community and network for women ages 18-35 who previously or are currently traveling, studying, working, or volunteering abroad.

I’m a believer that your age should never be greater than the number of countries you’ve visited.

I’ve lived in Europe, volunteered in Asia, and done quick stints in Australia and across North America. Couchsurfing, solo traveling, Contiki tours, eco-service trips, Peace Corps, you name it! Though a passion for travel still ignites a fire in my petite belly, there aren’t many experiences that can really make me say, “This is crazy!” Until a few months ago; however, two girlfriends and I decided to backpack West Africa for 24 days…

Mali – The Gem of Africa

Staying at the Sleeping Camel in Bamako allowed us to acquire the “need-to-know” information about the city. The Artisan market had an incredible selection of wood crafts and jewelry forcing the three of us to stock up (why I bought a drum the first day to carry around I still don’t know!). The music scene and night life on Route de Bla Bla – yes, that’s really its name – allowed us to kick off our trip in full force.

There may be nothing more awe-inspiring than UNESCO’s World Heritage town of Djenne. It’s here where we were mesmerized by the Grand Mosque- the largest mosque in the world made completely from mud! Not only are the homes constructed from mud as well, but they are multi-storied creating an ancient town of varying building heights.

Soon it was time for our three day hike across Dogon Country. At arrival our guide stated “We are going to hike for 15 kilometers this afternoon. This will take five hours if you walk well.” Keep in mind that I’m a former New Yorker that used to take the subway from 34^th to 42^nd Street! Nonetheless, sleeping on roofs under the stars and seeing pure, untouched Africa was incredibly surreal. During our (ridiculously long) hike, we came across Tiogou, a village built on rock formations supporting waterfalls and Youga Dogourou, a village where inhabitants live inside a mountain’s crevices!

Burkina Faso – No Man’s Land

After an ATM fiasco (let’s just say $400US was taken out of my checking account though I never physically received the money!), we jumped on an 8-hour bus to Bobo-Dioulasso (where you ask?!). Yes, Burkina is very much OFF the beaten path, part of its lure! The country is one of the poorest in the world, yet since it is a transport country, the roads are upkept.

We received a local tip to shop at Gafreh Boutique, a fair-trade store that showcases products created from recycled plastic bags. At Banfora, we touched the Karfiguela Waterfalls and the Sand Domes of Fabedougou before heading off to Burkina’s capital, Ouagadougou (say this five times fast!).

Togo – Not the Sandwich, But a Lovely Country

When we reached Togo, we searched the village of Goundoga for a secret “castle in a cliff” (okay, maybe not too secret as we read about it in a Lonely Planet guide, but it’s definitely not a touristy place)! While traveling there, I realized we had no clue where we would spend the night. “Would you like to stay at the chief’s house?” my chauffeur inquired. Yes!

It turns out our “castle in the cliff” was actually a mini-fortress with a steel ladder built into the side of Mt. Semoo during the 19^th century. The Chokossi had established an empire; however, the Moba resented this and built the fortress to hide from soldiers and tax collectors. Just like the IRS!

After a 12-hour ride (yes, 12 hours!), we welcomed the cool-climate of Kpalime, a tropical paradise amongst hilly forests, artisan markets, and cocoa and coffee farms. The best activity to do here: butterfly hunting!

Lome was my favorite city of the trip with its gorgeous beaches (check out Aneho too!), great shopping, delicious restaurants (Vietnamese pho anyone?) and voodoo! An affordable place to stay is Le Galion, which is walking distance to the beach. I would have recommended Chez Alice, 12km away in Aveposo, but the hostel’s monkey bit me!

Benin – Beaches and Stilts

The trip ended with a quick stop to Grand Popo – another beach resort (we needed it!) and Ganvie, a stilt village only reachable by canoe! At Ganvie, 30,000 Tofinu people live in stilt houses that sit two meters above water. Back in the 17^th century, the Tofinu fled here to escape slavery as their attempted captors, the Dahomey, were afraid of water and disallowed to enter it due to religion.

Be warned: backpacking West Africa is not for the novice tourist or for those lacking patience! Bush taxis (i.e. squeezing 8 people into a taxi!), non-existent time-tables, a beating African sun, and constant negotiation are just the realities of a trip like this. However, for those searching for adventure, you will find nothing less!

Advice about Life to Future Peace Corps Volunteers

A few months ago, my Associate Peace Corps Director asked me to write a vignette about life as a Peace Corps Volunteer and to include any advice. The Volunteer Assignment Description will be provided to future Community Economic Development (formerly Small Enterprise Development) Volunteers coming to Cameroon...including my replacement. Here we go:

Small Enterprise Development Volunteer Assignment Description Vignette

October 2011

“Jam na?” In the local African language of Fulfulde, this translates into “Do you have peace?” Before every meeting, I must traverse the room repeating this to each attendee. I could have never predicted exactly what my projects would entail of as a Small Enterprise Development Volunteer. Some days, I facilitate the meetings of savings and lending cooperatives for illiterate women; other days, I organize artisan classes to teach income-generating activities. And of course, as cultural exchange is a part of the job description, I spend other moments dancing at Muslim weddings and playing “football” with the kids. As a Peace Corps Volunteer of this generation, you will find yourself in a transitioning world. I’ve helped women who weren’t allowed to attend school as children to create e-mail addresses. Sometimes I Skype with family and friends and sometimes I write letters by candlelight. Realize that although every Volunteer’s post is different, your own attitude and flexibility will be the true determinants of your experience. And do not worry, speaking French will come with practice and time for everybody. Life here is full of uncertainty and there will be instances of frustration as in every job, but let yourself laugh, remember that development and impact require patience, and treasure the small, everyday moments of this once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Krystina Nguyen, SED Volunteer

Ngaoundéré, Adamawa Region

International African Festival of the Nyem Nyem People

The International Festival of the Nyem Nyem people annually takes place in the Adamawa region of Cameroon. Villagers and visitors climb into caves in the village of Galim while the Nyem Nyem people celebrate with war dancing. Though it’s deemed international and occurs yearly, it’s actually quite difficult to find concrete information about the festival. Being Cameroon, logistics take place at the very last minute and most publicity is done by word-of-mouth.

Thus, it was only through my Fulfulde (local language of Cameroon’s Grand North) instructor that I found out about the festival. He originally told me the dates were April 16-April 18^th, but the members of the Red Cross told me April 7-9^th. I did a final check with the Delegate of the Ministry of Tourism who stated April 6-8^th. Like I said, concrete information is hard to come by!

I was in Yaounde for my Peace Corps Close-of-Service conference until April 5^th, so when I arrived to Ngaoundere by the night train, I wasn’t sure what would really happen. And if someone had told me what would occur, I probably wouldn’t have believed them anyways.

At 11AM, Esther, a teacher and community volunteer, and I headed off to Narral bus agency. The only bus to Galim left earlier in the morning, but we could take a car to Tignere, which was only 55km away. The issue was that there was only a 1:30PM bus which was already full! We had to get there by nightfall as the war dancing would occur in the early morning.

Esther went to Alliance bus agency and called her friend at National bus agency to see if there were other cars – both fails. I called the Red Cross, but they had already left. The Delegate of Culture had already left as well. Renting a car would be too expensive on my Peace Corps salary. How would we get to this festival that was 145km away?

And that’s when a crazy idea hit me in the face. Why don’t we motorbike there? In the Ngaoundere area, you only motorbike 5km or so, no more. Otherwise, you always take a car. With no options left, I called a friendly motorbike-driving friend of mine, Obro. He and Esther said they would be in for a three-day adventure. Let’s go!

About three hours into the journey

So we were mistaken and it wasn’t 145km, but rather a 200km drive with the three of us piled on Obro’s motorbike. It was uncomfortable, but manageable…until I saw the rain clouds. “Ca va aller. Il n’y a pas un problem! (It’s good. There’s no problem!),” Obro said. It started to sprinkle and I held my breath. It stopped. Phew. It started to sprinkle again. Then no more. On the third sprinkle, it was a downpour!

Unfortunately, we were in the middle-of-nowhere with neither nothing nor no one in sight, so the only option we had was to keep on driving! Of course, the rains stopped once we reached a small village where Obro stopped to pray and we ate lunch. As we arrived to Tignere, we decided to continue on to Galim. Obro made a call as he said this would be the last place we’d have cell phone service. “Obro, do your relatives know we’re staying with them when we get to Galim?” I asked. He said no and as I proceeded to question him, it turned out that he’d never met these long-lost relatives. “Ca va aller. Il n’ y a pas un problem!” he says.

Still not there, but rather the middle-of-nowhere

He was happy to see an American

So there I was squeezed between a taximan and a teacher headed off to the tiny Cameroonian village of Galim, no clue where I will spend the night nor would I have cell phone service. Did I mention five hours had already passed by on this muddy motorbike? Sometimes I hate my crazy ideas.

Another hour passed and voila! We reached Galim safely and there was already dancing at the Lamido’s (traditional chief’s) palace. As I sorely jumped off the moto, I realized Obro didn’t have a suitcase. “Ca va aller. Il n’y a pas un problem!” he says.

The Lamido’s son, Aboubakar, saw little foreigner me and offered us a place for the night. Obro went off to find his long-lost relatives with whom he’d stay and Aboubakar led us inside the palace to a lavish meal of plantains, pasta, fruits, vegetables, and meat. Back at his house, I “bucket bathed” outside underneath the stars as I questioned whether this was actually reality.

The veranda to the house where we stayed for the weekend

Our host, Aboubakar, the son of the traditional chief

In the morning, Aboubakar had a motorman take us back to the Lamido Palace where we ate breakfast before running into the Red Cross volunteers and a few other people I knew from Ngaoundere. After breakfast and the arrival of the traditional chiefs of the nearby villages, we headed off to climb the caves on Mont Djim! Apparently, there’s a magic water spring that you can drink from that will cure all ailments, but I was more interested in the war dancing (and I didn’t believe it would cure my ailments but rather give me some sort of disease).

Let the music and horse fantasia begin!

On Mont Djim, fortune tellers predicted the future while it was one massive tailgate with food and yes, Cameroonian beer! We also hiked to the Execution Zone, where enemies would be thrown off the mountain after becoming beheaded. Why I decided to climb caves and hike in a dress and flip flops, please don’t ask!

Cave climbing in Mont Djim

Waiting for the war dancing

Hiking to the Execution Zone on Mont Djim

Back at the Lamido Palace, no one was really sure what was occurring until finally, the Nyem Nyem war dancers appeared! I’ve spent the past two years in Africa, but this performance was the liveliest dance I’ve seen with men, women, and children actively participating. I spent the next hour in awe as the men threw the children on their shoulders while dancing to the beat of the drums.

The Nyem Nyem war dancers - glorious!

The next morning, we jumped back on Obro’s motorbike to head home to Ngaoundere. Everyone knew us that weekend as we were the crazy ones that rode a motorbike the 200km to the festival (and well, I was the only American/foreigner in the sea of Cameroonians!). As we drove, Obro took a detour to Doualua, another small village. It turns out that his brother’s wife left him after he took on a second wife (polygamy is legal in Cameroon). Thus, Obro was on a mission to talk to her to get her to come back home to his brother after twelve years of marriage. As he tried to clear up the love triangle mess, I took a nap after finishing up my read “P.S. I Love You.” I guess it all worked out as she promised to come back if her husband would be nice to her.

I believed it was due to weight, but a part of the motorbike soon fell off. “Ca va aller! Il n’y a pas un problem!” Obro stated as he tied the piece back with some rubber. Note: Always travel with duct tape! A couple hours later, we survived another downpour which later turned out to be a blessing as the motor overheated and the mud water was able to cool it down.

We had left that morning at 8AM and I finally arrived to my house at 6PM. Over 13 hours on a motorbike. In the pouring rain. To climb caves 30 meters below the Earth. For war dancing with the Nyem Nyem people. In the tiny West African village of Galim. Did I mention that this was also my birthday weekend? Ca va aller!

Peace Corps Close-of-Service Conference

Twenty-seven months. That's how long the US government asks you to serve when you sign up for the Peace Corps.

When I first told people that I was joining the Peace Corps, some assumed it was only a one-year stint and were excited for me. When I told them it was two years, their jaws dropped. "That's a long time!" they'd say. I know.

The average application process takes twelve months including legal and medical checks. Have unpaid parking tickets? You better pay them off! Credit card debt? Hmm, can you clear that up before you leave? I was one of the unlucky ones who had to remove a wisdom tooth. "It's just plaque and the dentist says that it's negligible," I told the Peace Corps Medical Office. They held my medical clearance until I took care of it.

From the time I submitted the application to the time I boarded the plane for Cameroon, two years had passed due to the process and due to life choices. Now, it's almost two years later and my Peace Corps service is done in just a few months.

My stagemates (Volunteers that started the same time as me) and I traveled to Yaounde, Cameroon this past week to Peace Corps headquarters. We started our journey together here and were reunited for our Close-of-Service conference. In the three-day conference, we discussed resumes, our service projects, and readjustment back to the US (some say that acclimating back to American life is the hardest part!).

I received my official French level of Advanced High from the American Council on the Teaching of Foreign Languages. My official Close-of-Service date a.k.a. when I board that plane back to the US is July 20, 2012.

Twenty-seven months. It goes by quickly.

Fellow Greeter PCV, Benjamin Ace and I celebrating our last dinner

I love Ethan's traditional outfit!

Group picture try #1

Group picture try #2

Peace Corps staff, Education Volunteers, and Community Economic Development Volunteers 2010-2012

Prescraft Handicrafts, Bamenda, Cameroon

I rarely ever blog about food or restaurants. It's not that I refuse to be a foodie (who doesn't love good wining and dining), but I tend to focus my travel writing on adventures and activities. That is; however, until...Prescraft.

A fair trade enterprise headquartered in Bamenda, Northwest region of Cameroon, Prescraft is "a producer, seller, and exporter of fine African arts & crafts." Currently, over 150+ men and women directly benefit from the store's activities. The store's decorations and artisan artifacts combine traditional African culture with modern styles and flair.

Prescraft's home decor - great mix of Afro-Euro-Americana trends

Most people shop at Prescraft and then walk next door to Prescafe. The restaurant itself provides sleek IKEA-ish furniture while you dine. Menu choices include everything from cappuccinos to tomato soups. I highly recommend any kind of salad.

Even the bathroom entrance at Prescafe is sheek

It was the first time in two years I've ordered salad from a restaurant in Cameroon (due to my unhealthy eating habits and the fact that I worry about getting sick from uncooked food), but Prescrafe's pasta salad was too good to pass up.

Prescafe's pasta salad. Yum.

After two years of basically eating only Cameroonian food (and the occasional pizza/Lebanese treat), I might only blog about food and restaurants when I come back to the US!

The Smallest Peace Corps Post: Village of Kurubi, Cameroon

You can try to research it online, but chances are you won’t find Kurubi, Cameroon anywhere on Google Maps. Not to be confused with Kribi, a well-known beach resort in the South region, Kurubi is a small 150-person village in the country’s Northwest. It is also here where I went to visit fellow Peace Corps Volunteer Crystal Leanza.

Crystal was my roommate in Philadelphia where we met for “staging,” a pre-trip departure ritual where Peace Corps Volunteers meet the other members of their group with whom they will spend the next two years with in their respective country. It was only fitting that I visited Crystal’s post before we traveled together to our Close-of-Service conference where we will find out exactly when our service ends. Two years already done!

After meeting in Batibo, the palm wine capital of the country, we had lunch at the new, swanky restaurant in town (just ask around for the restaurant - people will know what you're talking about as there's only one restaurant!). We headed off with motos to Kurubi where we took a half an hour walking tour around the village (it's really small) while catching up on our lives amazed at how fast the past two years went.

Note to future Peace Corps Volunteers: Enjoy your service and treasure it all! Though two years seems long, it is really only a microcosm of our 80+ year lifespan. Your service will pass quickly!

The local spring which serves as the village water source

Kurubi, Northwest region, Cameroon

The high school of Kurubi where Crystal teaches science

Crystal's jungle backyard